Is Your Vehicle Compatible With Paintless Dent Repair-Removal?

You've probably heard by now that paintless dent repair/removal is a low-cost alternative to the pricier auto body workshops out there. But the big question on your mind is whether or not your vehicle is compatible with these dent removal methods. Below you will find a checklist that will ensure whether or not your vehicle is a candidate for PDR.

Size And Status Of Dent

To begin with, grab a tape measure and, if possible, a digital camera. Examine the dent(s) on your vehicle and first inspect them for pain damage and/or cracking. If the paint has been broken, paintless dent repair/removal is not going to work for your vehicle.

However, if the paint is intact, take your tape measure to see how large the dented area(s) are. If larger than a foot long, it may not be a good candidate for PDR as well. *NOTE* If you have the digital camera, take pictures of the damaged area(s) and e-mail them to the technician through the companies website. With the size information they can make the call for you whether or not they may be able to help you out.

Age And Condition Of The Vehicle

If the vehicle is more than 15 to 20 years old, the car may not be a good fit for paintless dent repair/removal. The reason for this is that over time the paint can get brittle from baking in the sun, and may flake off during the PDR procedure.

However, if the vehicle is newer and in good shape, as long as the dent is not in an area that had a previous repair by an auto body shop, your vehicle may be compatible with paintless dent repair/removal.

Location Of Dent(s)

Although paintless dent repair/removal is a powerful technique for making dents disappear, this doesn't mean the dent technician can remove every dent imaginable. As mentioned before, if the dent is located on a previous auto body repair, attempting PDR could have disastrous results. If the dent is too close to the edge of the panel, most of the time this too would disqualify your vehicle for repairs.

On rare instances where a dent is located over a strut or in a hard-to-access location, the dent technician performing the paintless dent repair/removal may be able to remove the dent most of the way, improving the look of the vehicle immensely - but the dent may not be perfectly smooth and fully-removed. But again this only occurs in rare instances.

Paintless Dent Repair/Removal: Is It Right For You?

As you can see, as long as your car, truck or sports vehicle is not older than 15 years, the paint has not become cracked or damaged, and the dents are not too large nor located in a bad area, a paintless dent repair/removal technician should be able to assist you in repairing the look and luster of your vehicle.

Remember, if at all possible, take pictures of the dents, take measurements, and e-mail this information to the dent repair company so they may help assess the damages. If this is not possible, call the company to set up a time you can take you vehicle to them for inspection, or ask if they are a mobile dent technician who could come out to you.

Approved Auto Body Repair

The road can be an unpredictable place and it is always possible that your vehicle may encounter a few knocks and dents.

Vehicle repair can unfortunately be equally as unpredictable which is why leading auto manufacturers provide a number of approved auto body repairers which conform to their exact specified standards.

In the unfortunate event of your vehicle being involved in an accident, these approved auto body repairers come highly recommended as their use ensures that you continue to receive the benefits of the warranty offered by said repairs, to the extent that your warranty has not expired or lapsed.

Approved Auto Repair Guarantees

Approved auto body repairers have met specified criteria, including required investments in their facilities and equipment as well as committing to several best practices within the auto repair industry.

These include performing all body and paint services in accordance with the guidelines specified by your auto manufacturer; the use of only genuine parts for repairs; and a guarantee that all work performed shall be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period equal to the remaining duration of the body warranty.

They even guarantee that any paintwork performed by them will be free from defects for a minimum warranty period of up to 3 years.

Aluminium Body Technology

Some auto manufactures have introduced some innovative new technologies to the automotive industry. This includes lightweight aluminium bodies which tap into the potential of lightweight combination of steel and aluminium in automotive design.

This innovative lightweight construction has previously been seen mainly in the production of sports cars where there is a need for lower consumption, superior agility and greater efficiency; but it is now part and parcel of the luxury vehicle market.

And while these techniques have created vehicle bodies that are comparatively 30 kilograms lighter than previous models without compromising on protection, they are nevertheless a specialised technology created by experienced engineers with an understanding of the characteristic qualities of aluminium.

Aluminium Body Repairs

These vehicles require specially trained and equipped aluminium structural repairers. Once again, approved aluminium body repairers have the only body shops that have all the specialised equipment to repair these vehicles. They have the dedicated area and the dedicated hand tools required to repair these vehicles so as not to introduce a cross contamination of steel and aluminium which will cause corrosion problems.

More so, they are required to attended a 2-week specialised training course on correct aluminium welding procedures as well as aluminium technology.

The road can be an unpredictable place, but with an approved auto body repairer the process of returning your vehicle to optimum condition needn't be.

Guaranteed skills, facilities and technologies approved by the auto manufacture of your vehicle provides not only the very best care of your luxury car but also the peace of mind that your vehicle will still deliver the same performance as always for many more journeys to come.

When Should You Choose Brand-Specific Collision Repair?

More than in the past, the drive towards lighter weights and fuel efficiencies has resulted in manufacturers resorting to materials that aren't as malleable or easily repairable as good old-fashioned steel. Over the past decade, aluminum alloys have seen increasing use in automobiles as a high-strength, lightweight and recyclable material. In fact, when you look at the 2013 Mercedes SL, for example, you would not think that it makes extensive use of recycled and high-strength aluminum. The result has been better performance and high fuel economy, despite the smaller engine options.

Before CAFE regulations even existed, aluminum to some extent had been used in automotive manufacturing, being found in bumpers, hoods, deck lids and engine components, notably intake manifolds and cylinder heads. Early on, engineers found that aluminum parts could yield as much as 40 to 50 percent weight savings. As a load bearing component, they found early use in wheels, which today is a billion-dollar industry. Today's aluminum-intensive vehicles, such as the new Mercedes SL, use aluminum for structural components, and this is where the difficulty lies for a lot of collision repair shops.

Because aluminum doesn't react like steel when attempts are made to straighten, heat or weld it, special techniques and equipment need to be used when a vehicle with an aluminum structure is brought to a collision repair shop. It doesn't help that the different aluminum alloys used in a car use different strengthening treatments. The wrong temperature can cause the aluminum to become brittle and the vehicle will then lose its structural integrity. While MIG welding is an accepted method for some aspects of aluminum repair, many car makers have advised collision repair shops to use a combination of rivets and structural adhesives when repairing aluminum structures in cars.

Increasingly, some car manufacturers insist on certifying collision repair shops who set themselves up as repair shops for particular brands. Although this has become a cause for some repair shops to be cut off from specific car brands or models, it is, in the end, for the benefit of the car owner who has to be assured that his new car can be repaired to factory standards. In order to ensure that this practice does not result in cartel-like practices, manufacturers should be compelled to disseminate repair information freely. In a few years, high-end manufacturers like BMW will begin manufacturing cars made from carbon fiber structures. Although carbon fiber has proven to be stronger than steel, it will compel collision repair shops to study new repair techniques. The many changes in the ways the automotive industry makes cars impacts the repair industry directly. It is up to the owners and managers of these shops to ensure that they are up to date with their techniques and information, so that their business remains viable well into the future.

Do You Have Emergency Road Service?

There are many reasons to have an emergency road service provider but the most important reason comes down to one word... Safety. The cost of the service will pay for itself usually in one towing service or a locksmith to retrieve car keys left in the ignition. The highway can be a lonely place when one is stranded in an inoperable vehicle.

People who have access to roadside assistance have someone to call for help when their vehicle breaks down, has a flat, or runs out of gasoline. Vehicles break down even if the vehicle is maintained in good shape because engine components wear out after a period of time. For instance the alternator can go out without warning and the car engine might start but will not remain running.

The vehicle with a worn out alternator will need to be towed to a service center to have the alternator replaced. If the vehicle owner does not have roadside assistance she will have to call a local towing company for help. If she has access to the internet on her cell mobile phone she can find a towing company in the area her vehicle is broken down using the search engine on her mobile phone.

If a vehicle owner has no roadside assistance and no access to the internet she will have to call information with her cell phone and try to find a towing company with the help of telephone directory. Once the tow service arrives she will discover that towing charges are not cheap. Towing services charge by the mile and a tow to the nearest auto repair shop could easily top one hundred dollars.

The vehicle owner with roadside assistance who finds her car inoperable need only call a toll free number for immediate assistance. The call center will dispatch a certified towing professional to the scene and remain in contact with the vehicle owner until the tow arrives. If the vehicle owner notifies that call center that she is in a dangerous area the call center will put a rush on the call so that the tow truck will make the call a priority.

There is no charge for the tow because the vehicle owner's membership fee covers all towing charges. The tow truck driver will take the vehicle to a certified auto repair center. The roadside assistance company has a list of auto repair centers in all areas of the country that have been approved to provide first rate trustworthy repairs.

Husbands can rest easy knowing that their wives have roadside assistance to help in case their wife has a vehicle breakdown. Parents can rest assured knowing that their teenage drivers can call a professional for help in case the family car the teens are driving breaks down a long the highway. Drivers of any sex or age sometimes forget to put gasoline in the tank and run out of gas far from a gas station. The roadside assistance center will dispatch a truck with a shipment of gasoline to the member's location.

The emergency road service membership cost is a bargain because the cost of an annual membership can be made up in one call. Safety is the primary benefit of the membership because being stranded on the road without help can lead to a dangerous condition. People with this membership in place have peace of mind because they know they call someone for help for example towing Burlington service during a roadside emergency. during a roadside crisis.

Auto Repair - Would You Let an Amateur Work on Your Car?

Studies reveal that 70% of auto repair technicians are ill-qualified to work on your car. They lack training, understanding, and the experience to properly maintain your vehicle. 70% is a staggering number. It doesn't end with the mechanic though. In fact, problems often begin with your service advisor - the person you sit down with at a dealer or repair shop to discuss your concerns. The turnover rate of service advisors is as high as 80% in some dealers. This means you'll sit down with an inexperienced amateur to discuss your auto needs. In other words, before a mechanic even works on your car, you're in trouble.

A recent example at a local Honda dealership illustrates just how much you can be steered in the wrong direction. The vehicle went in for its first oil change at the manufacturer's recommended service interval of 7,500 miles. The owner requested that the tires be rotated. The service advisor stated that it was much too early and was not needed until 10,000 miles. The owner pointed out that the vehicle would not need service again for another 7,500 miles and that would mean the tires wouldn't get rotated until 15,000 miles. The advisor brushed it off, stating that, after all, it was up to him and that it was "never too early to rotate your tires."

Which is it? Can one go 10,000 miles or even 15,000 miles on this particular model without a tire rotation? Or is it too early? Should one rotate their car's tires every 100 miles? As you can see, the client was not being "advised" properly. Fortunately, he understood basic car maintenance enough to point out the illogical rational to the advisor. In this particular case, the tire manufacturer's recommendation was every 5,000 miles for rotation.

The misinformation didn't stop there. The car repair customer also noted that the vehicle was intermittently not starting when very cold. Using a common automotive term, the client stated that the starter "missed" (i.e., it was not engaging). Not picking up on this term, the advisor started to talk about a weak battery - a very unlikely possibility for a 2009 vehicle with only 7,500 mile on it. When the customer explained the scenario again and even made the sound a starter makes when it "misses," the advisor stated that they would need the vehicle over night to check it on a cold morning. This is indeed protocol. One must first reproduce the problem before proceeding. However, an industry veteran knows that cars don't always cooperate. Given the client's description, the vehicle almost certainly has a bad starter and will very likely leave the driver stranded when it fails completely.

What to do? The customer knew the dealer would unlikely be able to reproduce the concern, as the condition was intermittent, and he would thus waste his time. So the owner asked if there were any known conditions (recalls or TSBs - Technical Service Bulletins). The advisor quickly said there were none.

In fact, there was a TSB related to a no start condition. The advisor had access to the information at his finger tips, but was too ignorant and/or too lazy to check. While ultimately the starting issue did not match the client's concerns, it would have been appropriate to check for known conditions. Moreover, the advisor should have formally written the customer's concern on the repair invoice "just for the record." In this way the starting issue could have been documented and then revisited at the next scheduled maintenance.

While the above scenario is frustrating enough, problems frequently arise when your advisor does not adequately express your vehicle's needs to the technician. A service advisor is essentially a middle man between you and the technician. This middle man dynamic wreaks havoc all by itself, but is compounded by amateurs (This is not to say it's better to talk directly to a technician, but that's for another article). An amateur service advisor will not pull the necessary information from you. He or she will not ask the appropriate probing questions to ensure that they have understood your concern correctly. Nor will he or she be able to adequately translate your concerns on the repair order for the technician in clear and concise language.

Ultimately, it's up to you to get the message across. The auto repair industry is full of amateurs. You need to be your car's advocate. Ensure that your service advisor understands and documents all your concerns. Show them - take them for a test drive if necessary. Read the repair order before you sign it. Avoid giving unnecessary information (e.g., I was driving from my sisters after dropping off my uncle's step brother, John, who just got out of the hospital....). Stick to the basics. While driving 20 mph (on a bumpy road) there's a subtle rattling from the left rear of the vehicle. It sounds as if metal is clanging around. A good advisor should be able to get the Who, What, Where, and When out of you. Help the amateurs by taking the time to explain. In this way you'll maximize your chances of getting your car fixed right the first time.  

The Basics of Dent Pulling

Our first lesson today will be on the basics of dent pulling. After all, dent pulling is one of the most challenging and rewarding of all aspects in the body shop. Let's create a scenario. Grandma just hit the garage again backing out and you've got to help her out. Well first of all you give her crap and remind her how good her cookies are. First you're gonna want to analyze the damage. It's in a good 2 inches and creased about a foot. With any luck you'll be able to hammer it out. Open up the trunk and take a look. Find yourself a decent hammer, body hammers are essential but of course anything will work. If the dent is creased your going to need to reach around with a contoured dolly. A hammer and dolly sure work well together in these situations, you may need a helper to do this or your "go-go gadget arm extension". From the inside of the trunk, begin tapping gently. You'll want to walk the dent out together. Starting in the middle of the dent is NOT what you want to do. Take a good look at it first. It's a good rule of thumb to pull the dent out working your way back from the way it went in. When you have the right combination you should hear the hammer hitting the dolly, nice and clear (clean). It takes a bit of practice, but with the right tools you'll get it. There are a variety of hammer & dolly combinations, so find yourself a cheap set of these, check out my store at Begin Autobody.com The more time you spend doing this the better.

Again, just take your time. If the hammer and dolly technique don't work, grab the biggest hammer you have. No! You certainly will make it worse. An assortment of pry bars can help you out, but only so much. It can be tedious and time consuming, an you'll need something to pry against. Use caution and take your time. There is no shortcut here, just poke around a bit, it usually helps, if only a little. That's not working though? O.K. here's the secret if you have a few bucks laying around especially if you enjoy doing autobody work and pulling dents. You'll need to find yourself a stud gun uni-spotter. This is a must have in the shop if people (grandma) keep on hitting the garage. It's a hand held spot welder that will weld pins to the damaged area. This can be quite fun, but make sure you grab your basic essentials. "SAFETY FIRST". You need to grind the damaged area down to the bare metal, the pins will just spark if you don't have a good contact. Be careful of sparks especially near the gas cap door. If the damage is near this then wet a rag with water and shove it in there, just to be safe. Watch what you're doing, you certainly do not want the grinder where you don't want it. NOTE: Use duct tape if you have to, a couple pieces here and there will assure you that you won't cause any extra unnecessary damages to fix while you're at it.

Alright, back to the Uni-spotter. I'll assume you know how to use your stud gun if you already own one. For a few bucks if you need one, you may be able to ask the nearest autobody shop near you if you can borrow theirs. They may look at you funny, but oh well, it never hurts to ask. To begin, run a row of pins in the crease about 1 inch apart. Grab the slide hammer and begin pulling, in this case she backed out and hit the garage. You want to then start at the rear of the car where it's damaged and begin pulling and tapping gently all the way to front. NOTE: When you begin pulling on the dent, take your hammer and tap anything around the dent down, this allows the metal that is stretched to come back down where it should be. Always begin pulling from where the dent starts and move along to where it ends, tapping down any high spots along the way. You can do this as long as it takes, you want it as close to the original contour as time allows or humanly possible. Remove the pins with a side cutter pliers. Usually the head of the pins remain on the car. These can be ground off with a hand held grinder. NOTE: Pick up the pins you cut off. They may find their way into your tire :(

Okay!!! Great, you should be good to go. Don't tap any harder than you have to, tap lightly and often. "lightly". With the uni-spotter put away, your not gonna want to haul it back out again. Tap all the way around the dents (high spots) using the pick side or dove tail side of your favorite body hammer. You need a good hand to feel. Give er a good rub. The use of a rag, or by simply putting a clean cotton glove on will assist you in determining what's high and what is not.It will be rougher than a cob at this point, but you're looking for the outies (high spots, nipples). These you do not want. Now it may be time for that hammer and dolly again. NOTE: you'll be putting a lot of body filler on trying to form your way around high spots or by having to pound them in after each course of body filler. Do your best, it challenges the most advanced autobody tech, but persistence pays off. Are you satisfied? Congratulations! If you did these simple steps thoroughly, you should be about done with this step. Take a breather for now, it's time for some fresh baked classic grandma cookies.:). "Keep in touch, we'll bondo it up real soon".

Primer Surfacer - The Final Fill

The Purpose
Primer surfacer is the final step or your final chance to produce the perfect surface with the correct texture before painting. Scratches and small imperfections can be repaired with this fill primer. Filling is the main purpose of this type of primer, you can think of it as a final filler. We finished the body filler or glazing putty with 150 grit, feather edged, cleaned the surface, masked, applied two coats of epoxy, and now we're ready to apply primer surfacer.

Flash and Window Times
After the epoxy has been applied, you can now apply the primer surfacer. Be certain to allow the epoxy to flash the recommended account of time. The manufacture procedure page will tell you how long of a flash time needed before top coating. With PPG you need to let it flash at least 30 minutes. However, you also have a window. This is the time that you have to apply another coat without sanding. Most epoxies have a long window time. The epoxy that I am familiar with has a 72 hour window. If you wait more than 72 hours to apply the primer surfacer, it must be lightly scuffed to ensure proper adhesion.

Adhesion - Mechanical vs Chemical
I keep talking about adhesion. I would like to expand on this and tell you why this is important. Adhesion is just another word for stick-to. For instance, in upcoming lessons we will refer to glue as adhesives. In order to prevent body filler, primer, paint, etc, it needs to adhere to the surface. There are two ways to provide adhesion. The first is a mechanical adhesion. This is why we sand the surface before we apply the coating. That is why it is so important to sand the edges extremely good. If a panel is going to peel, chances are it will start peeling from an edge. The second type of adhesion is chemical adhesion. This is when there is still a chemical bond with two products. For example, the 72 hour window with the epoxy primer is the time the surface will produce the chemical bond. After that, the chemical bond will no longer adhere. That is why after the 72 hour window, the surface will need to be re-sanded. Since we no longer have the chemical adhesion, we now have the mechanical adhesion to takes it's place.

Applying The Primer Surfacer
Alright, I took a little rabbit trail, but I wanted to make sure that you understand flash times, window times, and the types of adhesion. Now, let's talk about applying the primer surfacer. After the epoxy has flashed of the recommended amount of time, apply your first coat of primer surfacer. Only apply enough to cover the epoxy primer. Check the procedure page to determine the recommended number of coats needed to achieve the desired thickness or mills. Normally, two - three coats are sufficient. I usually apply two wet coats allowing each coat to flash off. Apply each addition coat a few inches past the first coat.

What's Next?
We've applied epoxy primer to provide additional adhesion and corrosion protection. Then we applied primer surfacer to fill the minor scratches and small imperfections. Now we're ready to apply guide coat and block sand the primer. We'll discuss that in another article.

By Donnie Smith

Basic Auto Repair and Maintenance: Oil Change Instructions

Changing the oil on a car is a fairly standard procedure. Although it is technically considered maintenance, performing an oil change is not much more difficult than filling with gas or replacing windshield wipers; generally it is just a little more time-consuming.

The first thing to do before beginning an oil change on your vehicle is to determine what sort of oil your vehicle uses, and how much. Also determine what oil filter should be used. For this information consult your manual, local auto repair shop, or look online (Autozone's website provides free information).

Next, gather the necessary tools. Essential tools are a box-end or socket wrench for removing the drain plug, an oil drip pan, and paper towels. Possibly optional items include a funnel, a work glove (for shielding your hand from the heat of the engine), and an oil filter wrench.

Oil filter wrenches come in two main styles, and if you're buying one, be aware that accessibility of the oil filter should at least somewhat determine which style you get. If there is a lot of space toward the end of the filter (you can easily look down the axis of rotation), get a filter that mounts to a socket wrench. You'll be able to use a socket extension. If there is plenty of space to the sides of the filter, but not a lot of room near the end, a strap-type filter wrench might be easier to manipulate.

To do the actual job, drive the car a bit, and then turn it off and let it cool for at least 15 minutes. This warms up the oil so that it flows better, but allows it time to drain back to the bottom of the engine. Locate the bottom of the engine. The engine may have various accessories bolted to it, but on the very lowest point of the engine will be a bolt that does not secure any other parts. This is the oil drain plug. Position your oil pan under this bolt, and remove it with the socket or box-end wrench. If your pan has a mesh cover, this will catch the plug. Otherwise try to keep ahold of it when it finally comes free.

Once the oil is draining, double-check to make sure it's going in the pan when the flow slows, and then move to the oil filter. This should be easy to locate - the new one provides a reference for what you're looking for. If it wasn't over-tightened, it should be easy to remove. Twist to the left and unscrew it from the engine. If it won't budge, use the filter wrench to loosen it. When the oil filter comes loose, it will drip oil, so tip it engine-side up as soon as possible. Apply a little clean oil to the rubber gasket of the new filter and twist into place. Slightly firmer than finger tight is the maximum recommended torque.

Next, replace the oil drain plug. This can be applied much more tightly, since it usually does not have a rubber gasket, and can be more easily removed with a greater mechanical advantage. Locate the oil fill port on top of the engine (usually a black cap marked "oil" or with a corresponding symbol). Fill the engine with oil to manufacturers' specifications, using the funnel if necessary.

The Roles and Responsibilities of a Mechanic - Fantastic Opportunities in a Rapidly-Growing Industry

Are you looking for a job as a mechanic? Wondering what the job description entails? Here's a brief outline about the services you are expected to provide and the background you need to have.

Mechanics are known by a variety of different terms such as Automotive Technician, Vehicle Technician and in some counties - Automotive Engineer. The term Automotive Engineer is often used in New Zealand and Australia although in some countries such as the United Kingdom better describes the work of an engineer employed in the manufacturing sector. The best way to check the correct term in your country you wish to secure work is to check the job boards. If seeking employment in New Zealand, check out Automotive Employment's website

As a mechanic, you are on either in workshop/garage checking and repairing automobiles and inspecting vehicles: Personal and business customers will come to your garage daily for car check-ups, as part of their Warrant of Fitness (WOF)/MOT registration renewal process. Your responsibility in this role is to thoroughly examine the vehicle for faults, wear and breakage - it's vital that your customer's car runs at its maximum potential.

Maintenance follows naturally on from inspection. After you have determined the vehicle's current condition and diagnosed the problems, it is time to repair (or in severe cases, replace) parts that show signs of damage or age. This is an important step because repairing/replacing parts actually helps the vehicle last longer - motor vehicles function as a whole unit - if one part malfunctions, chances are other parts will be affected too. So rather than waiting for the entire vehicle to break down, you need to prevent further damage by tackling the weak points and strengthening them.

These duties all require a certain amount of working knowledge of car parts, how they run and how to fix specific problems when they occur. Therefore, you will need to have an analytical mind, be very co-ordinated and organized - your customers depend on your ability to think of practical solutions for their motor vehicle problems. On the odd occasion, you might be asked to deal with an rare vehicle or exotic vehicle, it might be from a lesser-known manufacturer or include Hi-Tech diagnostic systems. Cases like these demonstrate that you need to keep yourself updated with the latest technology and the main dealer sites are usually the best place to do this. You will need to be prepared to commit to some research in order to understand technological differences. You have to be able to absorb information associated with industry processes and protocols.

Mechanics are often required to wield heavy machinery, at least in the Heavy Diesel side of the trade, so you need to be physically fit and capable of handling an assortment of tools. Some employers will ask you to provide your own set of tools for work.

Training is available for those who are interested in launching a career in automotive servicing or those seeking to up-skill in their field. For those who decide they love their jobs, there are plenty of job opportunities all over New Zealand and overseas for the trained, skillful mechanic.

One final thing - mechanics are increasingly working in hi-tech environments. Make sure your employer's workplace is up-to-scratch and provides opportunities for you to advance your learning.

How We Turned Our New Metal Building Into a Spa

We've had a beautiful in-ground pool for about 6 years now, and believe me, the whole family enjoys it to the full. My twin sons are both on the swim team at school and so they can get in some extra practice, and my wife has some mobility problems for which a good swim every day helps immensely. And I just love throwing myself in it after work to loosen the muscles and unwind.

The only problem is, we live in the north so the weather isn't always conducive to outdoor swimming. You'd think we were going to a funeral every autumn when its time to close it down for the winter. It's a job that has to be done, but we really hate having to do it because it means the end to all our most enjoyable moments until the weather warms up again.

But that's all changed now!

One day, Bobby, our more avid swimmer of the twins was doing some research on the web looking for a gym he and his brother could join to get in some winter swimming after school. One place he found actually had a separate metal building to house their Olympic sized pool.

"Hey Dad, look at this," he called out to me. "Why couldn't we do something like this with our pool?"

I looked at the picture of this huge prefabricated pool center and thought of the cost immediately. "And how do you expect me to pay for something like that?" I asked him.

He quietly dropped the subject, but switched his web browsing to finding prefabricated metal buildings just to get a feel for the prices. Besides swimming, Bobby was also good with math and economics, so as he browsed, the smile on his face got bigger and bigger.

After an hour or so, he strolled into the living room where my wife and I were sitting. "Get this," he announced. He then proceeded to explain how, with the dimensions of our pool, we could get a prefab metal building for almost the same price as two monthly memberships to a gym, plus the cost of opening and closing the pool every year.

At that moment Billy, the other twin walked in from his bedroom where he was studying. "And both Bobby and I can help pay for it too!"

"Yeah but those prefab buildings are so ugly," chimed in Sally, my wife. "It would make our back yard look like an auto body shop."

Bobby placed his laptop on the coffee table and spun it around so we could see the screen. Before us was a picture of a beautiful prefabricated horse stable.

"I'm thinking we could get this and convert it into a pool house. We'd have enough room left over to put a workout area in the back too," Bobby said excitedly.

Well, to make a long story short, we all agreed to look into the matter further, and before long made the decision to order the metal building. My sons and I spent a good part of the winter building it in our spare time when there was no snow on the ground. The conversion process was rather amazing, and when it was finished, we had exactly what we wanted.

We actually ended up building it backwards, with the two large stable doors in the back where the workout area was going. That way we could open both doors in the summer to get some air circulating while we exercised. We bought an additional canopy for the small door at the opposite end which served as the entry to the pool area from the house. Naturally there were some other additional costs for insulation, drywall, carpeting, paint and heating, but all in all it didn't break the bank in the least.

We even had enough money left over to buy each of us our own locker!

Come spring, Sally did some garden alterations so the pool house looked more like it belonged there. She planted shrubs and flowering plants all along the outside edges, and the boys laid down some red mulch to add to the beauty of it all.

Finally, the boys and I rummaged through the attic and brought down all the exercise equipment we had stored up there because there was no room in the house to use them. They all fit perfectly in the workout area!

Sure it was an investment, but in the end its a pleasure to see the family getting the most use of the pool year round. In fact, we're planning our very first winter pool party next month!

The Importance of Emission Safety

Auto emissions can be harmful to our health and the environment, but we have many systems in place to check and regulate these emissions. This article discusses the importance of apprenticeship programs that train specialists in emission controls.

Owning and operating a car comes with great responsibility. The convenience they afford us regarding commuting, transportation, and even recreation must always be taken with a strong consideration for safety and responsibility. But automotive safety goes well beyond the road. Proper maintenance of your car goes a long way to protecting the physical safety of your passengers and other commuters, with unexpected breakdowns causing many accidents. But just as important is the regular testing and controlling of your car's emissions, for this can not only affect one's physical health, but the environment as well.

Emissions are the fumes that are expelled from a car as it burns gasoline and other fuels. These by-products are necessary for the car to operate, just as it is necessary for the car to expel them from the exhaust system. Most range from mild pollutants to noxious fumes and are a major cause of urban air pollution.

Some of the main automobile emissions are:

繚 Hydrocarbons
繚 Carbon Monoxide
繚 Nitrogen Oxides
繚 Sulfur
繚 Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)
繚 Formaldehyde
繚 And various soot or particle smoke

When combined, some of the adverse effects of these emissions on the environment range from acid rain to the rise of greenhouse gases and smog. The deleterious effects on personal health range from asthma to other respiratory diseases, lung disease, cancer, and poisoning.

This is not to say that cars are completely harmful, but they do require us to regularly maintain and check the amounts of emissions we create both as a society, as well as individually with our own cars. This is especially true when the emission regulating system of an automobile is malfunctioning. For this, we have trained specialists who perform regular emission testing. This position makes up an important part of auto mechanic apprenticeship training.

Three major systems to control emissions that one learns are air injection, exhaust gas circulation, and catalytic converters.

Air Injection

This system utilizes fresh air along with exhaust gases. It is pumped into the exhaust system after being filtered. When it mixes with the exhaust stream, the engine uses a higher percentage of its gases and thus emits less by-product.

Exhaust Gas Circulation

This is a system whereby exhaust fumes are diluted. This is done by recycling some of the exhaust gases right back into the system instead of emitting them outright. It also has the effect of lowering the peak temperatures of combustion, which result in lower levels of nitrogen oxides.

Catalytic Converters

The catalytic converter is a type of conversion instrument made of solid, primordial transition metals and installed in the exhaust pipe. This device converts many of the noxious emissions into less harmful ones by oxidizing them, for example, converting carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide.

The more students entering general mechanic apprenticeships, the more we can rest assured that problems regarding auto emissions won't get out of control. But while we can rely on specialists to maintain our emission systems, we should not neglect that we have the first responsibility to bring our cars to them for regular checkups.

Get Auto Glass Repaired for Safe Driving

Your auto glass needs repairing or even replacement under several circumstances. The glass might get a chip or if looking through it is getting harder and harder, then you can consider getting it repaired. There are several auto glass repair and replacement service providers who can assess the condition of your auto glass and suggest accordingly.

If the windshield glass gets hazy due to scratches or due to continuous use then it is high time that you get it repaired. Driving a vehicle with hazy windshield glass restricts your visibility and you can even meet with an accident. The chips on the windshield glass or the side glass can also prove hazardous to you, in case you accidentally bump on to some obstacle. When your vehicle hit an object, then due to the jolt the chips on the glass gets bigger and the glass fragments can even injure you. Therefore, it is important that as soon as you notice some chip on your auto glass, you should consult a car glass repair and replacement service and get the problem fixed.

The experts from these services will assess the condition of your glass and will advise to get the glass repaired or to replace it with a new one. A good glass technician can even fill the crack or repair the chip to restore the transparency of the glass. However, it is suggested that when the crack or chip is too large, then you should not get the glass repaired but replace it for a safe driving experience.

You can either call a auto glass repair and replacement service or visit their workshop. The adept technicians on the workshop will quickly provide you with an estimate and you can hand over the vehicle for servicing. Some of the service providers also provide you with a courtesy car till the time your car is services. You also get several other benefits by utilizing the services of reputed workshops.

Some of the repair and replacement centers also offer you free car wash service. If you are going in for a replacement, then they incorporate glass which is of same or even higher quality than the original glass. You also get a life time warranted on auto glass service by some of the repair and replacement service providers. Apart from such benefits, it is strongly advised that as soon as you notice cracks, chips or any sort of damage on the glass of the vehicle, then do not give it a second thinking and get the glass repaired or replaced through certified technicians.

The Heater in My Car Is Not Hot - How Does The Heater Work and What Could Be Wrong?

Reader Question: The heater in my car is not working. The mechanic told me my heater core is leaking and needs to be replaced. The price he quoted me is not in my budget right now, do I have another option?
Bill

Bill I feel for you, the heater in your car (like the air conditioner) is a wonderful comfort item, and it can be very costly to repair if and when it fails. Before we get into repairing it, let me explain briefly what the heater core does.

The heater core works in conjunction with your engine's cooling system. The function of the cooling system is to remove heat from the engine, and it does this for the most part by sending the heated anti-freeze to the radiator located in the front of the car. The position of the radiator allows outside air to blow across the radiator thus cooling the anti-freeze.

The anti-freeze is then sent back to the engine. Hot anti-freeze is circulated throughout the cooling system by the radiator and heater hoses. Think of the heater core as a small radiator located inside the dashboard of your vehicle. Anti-freeze is constantly being circulated throughout the engine, radiator, and yes even the heater core regardless of whether you have the heater dashboard switch on.

When the heater is turned on by the driver, a diverter door opens to the heater core area in the dashboard. A small fan (commonly referred to as the a/c fan or blower) blows air across the hot heater core into the duct work of the dashboard and into the interior of your car.

When the heater core leaks (it leaks anti-freeze of course) it will usually leak inside the car on the passenger floorboard under the carpet. If your heater isn't working properly, or if you smell a sweet odor, investigate the passenger-side floorboard for signs of anti-freeze leakage. A leaking heater core may also cause a greasy film on the inside of the windows.

So what causes the heater core to leak in the first place? Usually the main culprit is rust build up caused from lack of cooling system flushes. Anti-freeze acts as a lubricant and rust inhibitor as well as a temperature controlling substance. Anti-freeze should be flushed and replaced periodically to keep the cooling system in good working order.

Rusty anti-freeze is usually a sign of a coolant leak somewhere in the cooling system that has allowed air to enter the system. It may be a leaky radiator hose, water pump, heater core, radiator, etc. Rust build up can be just as damaging to the radiator and other internal engine parts.

How do you stop the anti-freeze from leaking onto the floor board? Obviously you can replace the leaking heater core itself, which is the correct fix and is what your mechanic recommended. You can also try a can of radiator stop leak additive to see if it will patch the hole (this might be an acceptable temporary repair), or you can cut off the flow of anti-freeze to the heater core all together.

There are two heater hoses that are attached to the heater core from under the hood. These hoses can be cut and blocked off with a hose clamp, or a small hose splice can be inserted between the two hoses to create a loop thus avoiding the heater core all together. This works great to temporarily repair a leaking heater in the summer time.

Another cause of a heater that is not leaking but is not heating properly can be a faulty thermostat. The thermostat is calibrated to keep the anti-freeze inside the engine at a constant temperature. A faulty thermostat might not allow the engine temperature to get hot enough to heat the anti-freeze.

Thermostats generally do not need periodic replacement unless there is an under- or over-heating situation. When replacing the thermostat, make sure to install the proper heat range recommended by the manufacturer. Proper engine temperature plays a vital role in fuel economy and overall running condition of the engine, as well as regulating cooling system temperature.

Low anti-freeze levels or poor circulation of anti-freeze throughout the cooling system will hamper heater performance as well. If there is not enough hot anti-freeze to circulate and deliver to the heater core, heater efficiency will be greatly reduced. If you suspect a problem with your heater, first check the anti-freeze level in the radiator and make sure the fluid is in good shape and of proper color (either green or orange/red if you're using one of the new extended life products on the market).

To check anti-freeze color, dip some out and look at it in a glass container. (We use an anti-freeze hydrometer, which is basically an expensive turkey baster.) When you are looking at the anti-freeze in the radiator, you can only see the top surface color, and it will usually look okay even if it's not.

If low or contaminated fluid is not the problem, feel the two heater hoses going from the engine to the heater to make sure they are hot (the engine needs to be at normal operating temperature). If the heater hoses are not hot, inspect the radiator hoses for internal cooling system blockage.

With the engine at normal operating temperature, the upper radiator hose should be very hot, and the lower radiator hose should be just slightly less hot. If there is a substantial temperature variation, a blockage or restriction is probably present. A faulty thermostat and a radiator or heater core that is full of calcium deposits or rust build up are a few causes of cooling system restrictions.

Car Repair and Winterizing Your Tires

Tire winterization is an age-old process that vehicle owners have been performing on their tires since automobiles were invented. One of the most common forms of tire winterization to prevent car repair is tire chains or tire chaining.

Tire chaining is a relatively simple process. Snow chains that look like netting are affixed to the front tires on a front-wheel drive vehicle or all tires on a four-wheel drive. Generally, the snow chains are sold in pairs and need to be purchased according to the size of the tire.

Snow chains are extremely helpful in winter weather conditions. When driving through snow and ice, tires without chains can slip and have difficulty finding traction. Once a vehicle owner puts chains on their tires, they will notice that the car will handle better in extreme conditions. The tires will immediately find traction.

There are some common mistakes when it comes to snow chain installation and upkeep. Most vehicle owners do not understand that the tire chain will fail to work well if not affixed tightly. The chain should be checked occasionally to make sure it is the right tightness. If it is too loose, it could come off and damage your vehicle or wrap itself around your axle. Loose chains can cause you to require car repair.

Also, a common misunderstanding involves the driving speed. When your car is fitted with tire chains, or snow chains, you should not drive over 30 mph. The maximum speed the tire chains can manage varies from product to product. However, it is important to know that there is a maximum speed to follow when you have tire chains. For example, you will have to avoid highway speeds.

Owners should also avoid driving on dry roads with snow chains. Of course, it is not entirely possible to avoid dry road driving all together. It is merely ideal to only use the chains if you will be driving predominately on wet, snowy and icy roads.

Research the different forms of tire chains. There are many different types from diamond and link chains to a type of fabric called a snow sock that fits over the tire. Do a little research to find out which style is best for your vehicle and the climate that you will be driving in. You may find that the traditional snow chain is not the best choice for you.

Tire chains aren't the only way to prevent winter car repair. There are other choices when it comes to winterizing your tires for heavy snow driving or driving during inclement weather. You can have snow tires installed on your vehicle. Snow tires are tires with deep or heavy grooves built into the tire. These tires generally have better traction than regular tires because the deep grooves allow the tire to grab the snow.

It is important to consider tire winterization as a way to prevent car repair. When you can make your vehicle safer during the snowy months, you will avoid mechanic bills in the spring.

What Size Air Compressor Do I Need? - Answer These 3 Questions

Many people new to air compression or pneumatic tools will find themselves asking, What size air compressor do I need? when shopping for their first one. And it's a great question to ask because you want to make sure you do your homework and purchase the right machine for the job or tasks at hand. In order to answer this question, you need to ask yourself three more.

What Are My Tool Requirements?

To answer this question you need to look at the tools you currently use, or plan to use, and find their cfm (cubic feet per minute) requirement. This can either be found on the tools themselves or in the user's manual. Some tools consume more air than others, such as grinders and sprayers, and some consume less, such as nail guns and staplers.

If you will be the only person using the air compressor, then find the tool with the highest cfm and use this number to help determine the size of machine you need. If, however, more than one tool will be used at any given time, such as in a mechanic's shop, then add up the total cfm for all the tools that will likely be used in tandem. This figure will give you the air compressor's required - or delivered - cfm.

Take this figure and multiply it by 20 percent to give you an accurate delivered cfm rating for the compressor you are interested in purchasing.

Stop-Start or Constant Run?

Do you require air compression at all times or only at certain times? If you will be using the unit for household tasks such as inflating tires or sports equipment, or doing some finishing work, then you most likely will require a smaller, portable machine and these are generally stop-start varieties.

If, however, you plan on using this air compressor at your place of business, such as a factory or auto body shop where it will be used constantly by many people, then it makes sense you would need the type of motor that will run continuously, providing pressure the second it's needed, every single time.

Still not sure? A good rule of thumb is to figure how many times per hour you will use the machine. If it will be stopped and started 20 times or more per hour, then you will need a constant-run setup.

What Size Tank Do You Need

It's not the size of the tank that matters but how often you will use the unit. Obviously the bigger the tank, the longer usage time you will have as the pressure is depleted more slowly. The negative aspect to a large tank is that they take quite a bit longer to refill with pressurized air. A larger tank makes sense if you are concerned about the motor constantly starting and stopping to refill, or if again, you will be using it in a work setting and need a constant flow of pressurized air.

If you take the time to answer these three questions first, you will finally be able to answer the question, What size air compressor do I need? and purchase the one that's right for you.

5 Key Steps To A Successful Autobody Repair

Autobody repair can really be a daunting task and surely requires a great deal of effort to successfully accomplish. This is particularly true if you are not fully aware of the basic information on getting a vehicle repaired. Here is an overview of the basic steps which may make the process easier:

1. Get an Estimate
In order to provide the most precise estimate possible, the collision estimator in most larger autobody shops will enter all the details regarding your repairs into a programmed estimating system. A report will then be generated outlining the amount of repair that your car needs along with the costs involved.

2. Get an Insurance Approval
Once you get a repair estimate from a reputable collision repair shop, an agent from your car insurance company may require to inspect the vehicle and project their own estimate for comparison. In most cases, your local body shop work with the insurance company to ensure the figures on the car repair estimate is in line with the amount from the insurance company as well as the repair procedures to fix the damages.

3. Ordering Parts
Before any car repair work begins and in most cases, before you are asked to bring your damaged car into the autobody shop, all parts are to be ordered to ensure they are available when the actual work begins. This is to guarantee that the repairs are done as quickly and efficiently as possible, having the least amount of inconvenience to you as their customer. Occasionally, there may be the need to place a special order for parts which can then add time to the repair process.

4. Body Repair and Finishing
Depending on the severity and nature of the damage to your car, there may be a need to perform major body repairs. This repair process involves replacing damaged exterior parts and performing any necessary metal painting and finishing.

5. Inspection
When everything in your car has been put back together, a test-drive of your car is necessary in order to perform a quality control system check. This must be done to ensure that everything functions correctly after the repair. Only when you and the technician are both satisfied that the car repair process is successfully completed.

Classic Car Restoration - A Challenging Hobby

Classic car restoration is a hobby that requires know-how, creativity and patience to turn an old beater into a gorgeous show-stopper. Cars that were made a lifetime ago require special care and upkeep. Rather than letting them sit in the barn and rust, most classic vehicles need repairs, attention and a lot of TLC.

Since most daily driver vehicles today are computerized and made from corrosion-resistant metals and/or fiberglass, and even carbon-fiber in some cases, classic vehicle restoration projects often require hard-to-come-by body parts for inside and out. This is especially true for cars whose manufacturers are no longer in business. Many vintage car owners are forced to scab together parts, modify generic replacement replicas or get lucky and find usable pieces from other enthusiasts. Once the car lover has the parts, it can be tricky to maintain or install, even working on the basics.

While many car parts were standardized in the 1940s, '50s and '60s, the dealerships often exchanged optional and even stock features among different cars on their lots in order to make a sale. Air conditioners, for example, often arrived in the back seat in mid-'60s cars. The dealership mechanics would do the installation. If a customer wanted a/c on a car that didn't have it, the dealer would remove it from another and add the option to the sales price, complete with on-site installation. Fixing an a/c unit today without completely modifying the entire system is impossible due to Freon issues and wiring problems.

While finding car parts is hard enough, fixing them or installing them is even trickier when one is not well-versed in the inner workings of that particular vehicle. From carburetors to wheel bearings, step-by-step instructions are crucial to getting the car started and moving versus leaving it in the barn. Repair manuals and do-it-yourself restoration guides are the most reliable ways to lay the groundwork for any auto project, especially the classics. While they may come with the car from a benevolent seller, they are hard to find in regular bookstores or the public library. In most cases, they are no longer published and can only be found on websites where online car repair manuals are sold or at swap meets for car enthusiasts. Without the bible for the car's inner workings, completing a restoration is difficult, if not impossible.

Chilton repair manuals can be found online, as well as Bentley or Haynes auto repair manuals. Even the most knowledgeable car buff can be stumped when it comes to classic cars. Internet forums can be helpful as well, especially when the vehicle makes noises of unknown origin that you can't seem to pinpoint. It is most helpful to find a website catering to the same make as the project vehicle. For example, classic Chevy lovers will be more able to help the owner of a Chevrolet vehicle, than a Mopar or Ford owner. The risk with this is that while they mean well, sometimes the advice is sketchy or incorrect.

While classic car restoration can be a fun hobby, it is most satisfying for those with a lot of know-how, mechanically inclined friends or a vehicle that has already been restored and needs only minimal upkeep.

How To Repair Your Car's Power Windows

As you're driving down the turnpike and approaching the tollbooth, you reach for the switch to lower your window and nothing happens. The switch moves but the window does not budge. Not even a noise from the window motor can be heard which strongly suggests to you that the device is not functioning. You must stop your car and open up the door to pay the attendant before continuing on your trip. Thoughts of an expensive car repair bill are dancing through your head, putting you in a foul mood and tempering the anticipated fun of your getaway weekend. Don't despair: you can repair the power window yourself and save a bundle over expensive dealership charges. Let's take a look at the steps you can take to fix the problem yourself and save a lot of cash in the process.

Before assuming that the window regulator must be replaced you should first rule out the possibility of dirty electrical contacts. On most cars the main power for all switches goes through the master switch located at the driver's console. Sometimes the switch is dirty causing the window to malfunction. If this is the case, take the necessary steps to clean the contact and your problem should be resolved.

Should you determine that the contacts are clean and your switch is functioning, then it is likely that the motor has burned out and is in need of replacing. Whether you are installing a Honda window regulator or a Volkswagen window regulator, or a regulator for any other make the steps involved in replacing a window regulator are usually quite similar:

1. Remove the door panel for the affected window.

2. Locate and remove the bolts holding the regulator to the door; it is likely you will have to manually lower the window in order to access the bolts.

3. Remove the old regulator, disconnect all wiring, and replace the old regulator with a new one you have purchased from a parts supplier. Shop online to find the best value as you will pay a mint if you order one through a dealership.

4. Tighten the bolts holding the new regulator and reinstall the moisture barrier. Make sure all the wires are put back in the door before closing the door panel.

5. Engage the power window switch and the new regulator should work unimpeded.

Of course, follow your car's repair manual for specific instructions.

I've given to you a general outline to convince you that this is a task that even a novice mechanic can handle - in other words: you can do it! By handling the problem yourself, you'll save plenty of money by avoiding garages who will mark up the replacement part as well as tack on several hours of labor costs to your bill. Shop online to compare prices and to receive the best shipping and handling arrangements available.

A Car Brake Repair Primer

The security of your car is vital, whether it is a Mercedes or a Mazda - even the safest vehicle on earth can have brake failure. If your car's brakes don't work properly, the consequences could be fatal. Thus, the brakes are probably the most important part of your vehicle. Car brake repair knowledge is always good to have because you never know if or when your car's brake system will let you down. If this happens while you're driving let's say in the desert, miles away from the nearest garage, you should be able to

• Perform a brake inspection and troubleshoot the problem




• Know what it takes to do a car brakes repair




• If possible, do the fix yourself



• 
  If not, be able to describe the problem to someone who is able to repair your automobile brakes.

To become able to perform the work listed above, the first thing you need to know is how a car's brake system works.

A drum system is utilizing hydraulic pressure to press a pad against a brake drum to slow down the speed of the vehicle. Here is how it works:

• press the brake pedal



• the piston in the master cylinder sends pressure via the brake lines held by the brake shoe to the wheel cylinders inside the brake drum



• the friction caused by the shoe pressed against the drum is stopping the wheel from turning

A brake drum is a flat-topped and heavy cylinder, that you normally find somewhere between the wheel rim and the drive wheel. When you press the brake pedal, the friction material held by the brake shoes is pressed against the brake drum. This will slow the rotation of the wheels. A wheel cylinder contains pistons utilizing hydraulic power from the master cylinder to force the brake pads against the brake drum.

Another brake system, called disk brake system is using hydraulic pressure to press a pad against the rotor. This way it slows down the vehicle. Here is how it works:

• press the brake pedal



• the piston in the master cylinder is activated and sends pressure via the brake lines to the calliper



• when the pad makes contact with the rotor, friction is created and this stops the wheel from turning

A rotor is nothing but a circular plate that is gripped by the brake pads for slowing down the vehicle. A brake pad is a pad made of friction material. When pressed against the rotor it stops the wheel from turning. This pad is held by the calliper, which straddles the rotor by using hydraulic pressure from the brake lines. With help from internal pistons it forces the brake pads against the rotors.

Performing this process, the breaking system needs brake fluid. The master cylinder provides this by distributing the brake fluid under pressure, to the entire breaking system of your vehicle.

The description above gives you the knowledge of how two different car brake systems work. These are the first things you need to know when troubleshooting and fixing any problems regarding your vehicle's brakes. Brake problems can occur in a Cadillac, a VW or even in the safest vehicle brand. There are plenty free resources online which give you step by step instructions on fixing any brake problems that your vehicle may incur. I recommend that you go online and do a search for 'car auto brake repair'. You'll be amazed of the list of brake fix resources that will appear within seconds.

MAACO Auto Painting and Bodyworks - Franchise Review

MACCO has been a franchise since 1972, and now hosts over 500 franchises. These franchises service more than 12,500 vehicles every week, 650,000 per year. This means they service more cars than any other car paint and repair franchise in North America. MAACO has been dubbed "America's Body Shop," and it is known worldwide. It is one of the cornerstone franchises of Driven Brands, which is the leading automotive franchise in the United States. It has been recognized by experts in the media and franchising industries for overall excellence, growth potential, and comprehensive support systems for store operators. MAACO has developed a system that relates to the establishment and maintaining of their centers. This system includes research and development, market analysis, training, advertising, record keeping, sales and merchandising methods.

This brand is an incredibly popular franchise, as shown by the many entrepreneurs seeking to start a MAACO franchise. With brand recognition and more than 45% of the U.S. market share, starting a new MAACO franchise is a huge opportunity.

The requirements to start a franchise include a net worth of $250,000, minimum liquid assets of $90,000, and a credit score of at least 700. The initial franchise fee is $40,000, and the average total investment is around $300,000. This franchise is North America's number one aftermarket franchise in terms of sales. Certified franchisees average around $1,000,000 in annual store revenues..

In 2011, MAACO was ranked #1 in class by Entrepreneur Magazine, and 84th overall. Base on the 2010 Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association (AAIA) in their Fact Book of the 19th Edition, the automotive aftercare market is one of the fastest growing industries today and is estimated to grow 4.5 percent in 2010 - up from $277.2 billion in 2009 to $289.6 billion in 2010. This franchise has been called a "recession resistant company," largely because of the huge number of cars on the road. Even in a recession, those cars will need repairs.

For new franchisees, the training process is extensive. The first four-week training program combines in the classroom, in the field and on the job training aspects. This training focuses on all aspects of owning and operating a MAACO franchise. This includes learning about the franchise system, merchandising, advertising and marketing, the POS system, interfacing with customers, technical training, lead control, technical training, management information system, forecast and profit/margin control and local trade, wholesale, and national account business-to-business training. After that, a minimum of four weeks of in-store training is given, to familiarize employees and managers on products and store operations. In addition, for six to twelve months, training and oversight blends in-store training with constant support of Operating System experts, who help achieve profitability, quality, and sales targets by focusing on the management process of the operating system in the store.

When looking to start any business it is important, particularly considering today's market, that you look for specific ways to cut minimize or reduce overhead and risk. Any business is going to have risk, but it is important to have a full understanding of the amount of investment, startup cost and "ROI" (Return on Investment).

Most people are not aware that 80% of ALL franchise endeavors fail in the first two to five years leaving large debts looming for years thereafter.

One way and in my opinion the best way to cut overhead, startup and investment cost is to take advantage of the new age of entrepreneurship and start a business from the comfort of your home. Opportunities have emerged in the online market that are creating millionaires every single day. Learn more about the exciting opportunities tied to a business model that begins profitable by visiting: http://whatsbetterthanafranchise.com.

Home Improvement Step #1 - How to Refinish Your Kitchen Cabinets

No fluff. No filler. Just instructions on how you can refinish your kitchen cabinets, as a DIY project. Please go through and read all the steps involved Before you begin, to determine if this is a project that you can handle. Don't start something you are unable to finish. Get a professional!

Lets begin.

Length of time needed should be 2-3, 8 hour days, one person.

Material needed for prep: 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper, automotive Bondo, paper towels for drying cabs off, dust mask, so you don't breath in the dust, newspaper, you'll be told why later, 1" masking tape, also later, some fast drying acrylic primer, and a couple of 3"-4"rollers, NOT SPONGE Rollers.

Cordless drill will be helpful removing and reinstalling hardware.

Cabinet finish needed: Coranado Ceramaguard Plus semi-gloss acrylic w/ceramic microspheres.

This is your best finish to use. It wont peel, or crack and will last for years. Cleanup is easy with water. This finish can be found at most well known paint suppliers, like Sherwin Williams.

Note: Be sure to lay down drop cloths to cover counter tops, floors and appliances that you were unable to move. The best job will be accomplished with appliances removed to gain easy access to all parts of cabinets.

The very first job you have is to LOOK at your cabinets. Take a good look at the face of the cabinets and determine if they are laminated, or are they a finished wood. If they are laminated, you'll have to check to see if the laminate is loose in any places, or maybe missing in places.

If there are places that have laminate missing, those places will need to be filled with Bondo. Yes, Bondo. The same Bondo that is used to repair auto body damage. If any areas of the laminate are loose, these need to be glued back down, as best you can.

You might have to cut the laminate in the center of the loose area, so it can be pulled away some, so you can glue it back down, using a contact cement for that purpose. When the repair is done, then you'll complete the repair using Bondo. You want to have a facing that's solid and smooth.

You don't want to do any repairs until you see all the areas that need repair. You'll need to look at all the doors and lower drawer fronts, for any damage that need to be fixed also.

If the doors are in very bad condition, you may want to get new doors made. Check online or the yellow pages for custom made cabinet doors, in your area. The most cost effective method would be to reuse the old doors, just refinish them and use new hardware.

After you look at everything and find any areas that need repair, now you have to remove all the doors. Be sure to mark where the doors go. Mark them on the inside using whatever method you decide. You can also draw out a diagram according to size on paper. Nothing to elaborate,

If the doors or drawer fronts have damage, you'll need to decide if they can be repaired also. If the doors and drawer fronts are in good condition, then you'll also refinish them using the same finish as on the cabinet faces. Most damage can be repaired using Bondo.

At this time you want to inspect the inside of all the cabinets, for any damage that needs repair. The most common area that needs repair is under the sink. This area is prone to water damage. The damaged area should be removed, and can be replaced with plywood, then finished using the same finish as the rest of the cabinet.

Now you should begin and finish ALL repairs that need to be done. That's it for step #1.

We'll continue with the next article step #2.

For the Best Auto Tint, Choose The Right Product

In this generation with many choices, it is very difficult to choose the right product that best suits our need. With many alternative products flooding in our society even making the right choice for the best Auto tint is like putting a thread into the hole of a needle.

Without guidelines in determining the right product for the best auto tint is like a blind man walking without a guide. So if you don't want to be blind in choosing the right product for your car window tint, you should give much importance to some guidelines to acquire the best auto tint.

You should also know that the main purpose of tinting the car window is the reduction of UV rays from the sun as well as safety, security and privacy. It is not just an optional cool add on to your car but it save you and your passengers from harm particularly if you spend for long hours on the road.

Many aspects are needed to be given attention when choosing the right window tint, such as governing state law as well other things related to it. Without knowledge of these aspects will unknowingly lead you to technicalities and dissatisfaction of your car tint.

Some of the basic things to consider when choosing the right product for best auto tint are:

繚 Watch around for different car tinting services available in your location. Giving effort on checking out the tinting products of different vendor and as much as possible ask for a sample.

繚 Make a research on the average cost of car window tinting. Too cheap or too costly is considered as both extreme.

繚 Seek an advice on the suitable choice of film for the glass because some films are appropriate for some type of glass.

繚 Consider a UV-reflecting window tints because it does two things at the time.

繚 It keeps you and your passenger from dangerous effect of the heat of the sun.

繚 It also help so that the warm from the heat of the sun will not be trapped inside your car

繚 On the other hand it very basic that you must have know-how regarding the existing law on car window tinting of your state.

Remember that with more knowledge you have about anything will give you an advantage even in searching for the best auto tint.
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Why Is Glass Repair and Replacement So Essential?

Auto glass is a very important element of any kind of vehicle. Their repair and replacement offer a quick fix solution for damaged vehicles. The solutions can last for a long time if licensed professionals have worked on them.

There are some types of the auto glass. The windshield, which is made of laminated glass, is an important part of the vehicle. Even if it breaks, the pieces are struck together. Then, the side and the rear tempered glasses complete the frame of a vehicle. They break into small pieces rather than long shards in accidents. There are four factors that determine why a repair and replacement service is so essential. They specify how we can take care of it as well.

Safety: This is the priority. Any kind of auto glass repair and replacement increases the safety quotient of a vehicle. For example, the windshield is one of major elements that maintain its structure and further its safeness. Depending on the nature and the size of damage, a glass specialist can suggest the ideal windshield glass repair and replacement solution. Repairing is cost-effective and good enough, but if the damage is severe, replacement is the only solution.

Visual Clarity: As long as the glasses are in good condition, they are usually taken for granted. But care and attention are needed when they are not. Visual clarity is an indicator of safety when we are driving. Any form of defect in the glasses will compromise on our sight as much as it will also expose the riders to dangers. The best solution is to take the vehicle to a solution provider and fix the problem.

Price: When we consider about the cost, repairing is always cost effective than a replacement for any of the glass. It is evident from the example of windshield glass repair and replacement solution. For the sake of quality, there should be no compromise on the price and charge of the service. Sometimes, vehicle owners go to the cheap service providers, considering it is inexpensive but it can cost them more in the long run. Besides the standard of the service would be low, doing more harm than good.

Damage Control: The auto glasses are made of different processes. As mentioned earlier, the laminated layers in a windshield are glued to each other. The pieces would not get loose and fly into your face. But it is only a repair or replacement which will ensure 100 percent safety. Now we also know whether a repair or a replacement would be the solution.

Choosing a Good Car Repair Company

Getting your car fixed is akin to having dental work done - you don't necessarily want to go through it, but it has to be done. There are a variety of reasons one needs to get their car fixed, including body work caused by an accident, brake troubles or even engine problems. How you go about repairing those issues and who you choose to do the work is perhaps the most important aspect when it comes to needing some auto repairs. Looking for a few things when it comes to hiring someone to repair your car can help you choose the right person.

Perhaps the best way to decide who will perform your auto repairs is to get a referral from someone you trust. There's nothing like getting a first-hand account from someone who will give you an honest assessment of an experience he or she had when working with a company. If you trust that person's judgment, you could find yourself getting car repair work that is high-quality. To be safe, you can also contact the Better Business Bureau to see if the mechanic you are considering hiring has a good rating with them. If not, or if there's actually an unresolved complaint filed against them, you may want to hire an alternative.

You should also use your common sense when deciding which mechanic to hire for your repairs. If the mechanic doesn't sound too knowledgeable about what's going on with your car, that's a sign you don't want to ignore, because you won't get quality work. If the mechanic or his staff is rude and unprofessional, you can usually make the assumption that your business isn't appreciated with them. However, if the staff is knowledgeable, friendly and professional, there's a good chance you'll receive the kind of car repair you desire.

Generally, car dealerships have the most resources when it comes to repairing vehicles. Dealerships can often tackle and resolve problems that smaller, independent mechanics may not be able to. They may have access to special tools or parts needed to repair the car that the smaller mechanic may not have. They also have technicians that are exclusively trained to service the problems that happen with your type of car. However, you'll likely pay a premium for taking your car to a dealership. Dealerships are thirty percent more expensive than the independent mechanics and often offer warranties for their work.

Smaller, independent mechanics often charge less for their work. However, this doesn't mean that you won't get the expertise and high-quality work a car dealership will give you. Independent mechanics often have less overhead to pay than dealerships have, so they can afford to charge less for car repair. The bottom line is you need to trust your instincts and use common sense when it comes to finding someone to perform repairs on your car. If not, you may end up with low-quality work that costs you more than you can afford.

How To Budget for Car Repairs While Erasing Debt

Whether new or old your car will need maintenance while you are trying to get out of debt. Ranging from routine oil changes to emergency transmission repairs, cars always require some sort of work to be performed on them. It is our unpreparedness to meet these maintenance needs that turns car ownership into a debt nightmare. Not being prepared for an auto repair leads to it being an emergency and how do most people pay for these emergencies? By putting them on a credit card of course. Which over time can add up. Here is How To Budget for Car Repairs While Erasing Debt.

1. Cars Will Require Routine Maintenance

If you drive a car then you must come to the understanding that cars will require routine maintenance over time. Even if you own a brand new car, there are routine maintenance requirements that will have to be performed at regular intervals. Check your owners manual for the schedule but usually it's something like at 1000 miles then 20,000 miles, 35,000 miles, 60,000 miles, 90,000 miles, and so on. On top of that cars will require having their old changed approximately every 3000 to 5000 miles.

These routine maintenance intervals should not be emergencies. They are laid out very clearly for you by the auto manufacturer. So you should have plenty of time to budget and prepare for them.

2. Cars Will Require Unexpected Repairs

Secondly, you must come to the understanding that cars will require unexpected repairs over time. What we often call emergency repairs. Under the hood, cars are a symphony of lots of moving, mechanical parts. These parts wear out from use over time. Expect that over time you will have to repair the muffler, the transmission, the radiator, the fuel injectors, the engine. Tires will need replacing. Brake pads will have to be replaced. Therefore, they really should not be unexpected. The only unpredictable piece will probably be how much a particular repair may cost.

3. Budget For It

So how do you prepare for any auto repair? You budget of course. Each month or maybe each paycheck determine a fixed dollar amount that you want to place in your car repair fund. $100 per month is a good goal to shoot for. If you can't afford that much right away then make it any amount you can afford. $20 or $50 per month are good targets too. Any amount is better than nothing.

4. Car Fund

Whatever amount of money you budget place that money into a "car fund." Nothing complicated. Set up a separate savings account at your bank that is dedicated to car repairs if you like. Then you can just transfer the money in there online yourself, or have your company direct deposit the money for you into that account if they offer that service. If you are good at tracking your money, you could even just keep it in a general savings account fund and then track how much of that money is set aside for car repairs in a spreadsheet. Pick a method that you like for where to keep the money.

5. Budget a Little Extra

Look at your routine maintenance schedules at the beginning of the year to see what planned maintenance may be required. You should even be able to get a list of these from your dealership's service department or your mechanic with approximate pricing. Then budget a little extra each month so you can budget and meet those costs when the time comes.

6. Emergency Fund

Notice that up to this point no mention has been made about dipping into your emergency funds. By now you should realize that your cars will need repairs. And if you budget all year long in anticipation of these, then most scenarios should not really be an emergency. But just a temporary inconvenience. However, there will come a time where a car repair will be so large that you might not quite have all the money in your car fund to pay for it. Then in that case pay what you can from your car fund. And then dip into your emergency fund to cover the rest.

Conclusion

By now you should realize that car repairs, whether routine or unexpected, will have to be made every year. By creating a car fund and budgeting for these you can easily cover 95% of all car repairs without them becoming emergencies. And no need to pay for them with credit cards. For any amount that you cannot cover with the car fund then go to your emergency fund to cover the rest. So start budgeting for car repairs, continue to erase debt, and build wealth.

Bondo Basics - The Art of Body Filler

Where would the world be today without the luxury of Bondo. Ever since I can remember, well 20 years or so, it has been all the hype. You have yourself a nice looking muscle car or any car for that matter and the first thing everyone wants to know, even if they don't say it is " how much bondo, looks really nice, hmm how much bondo, bondo bucket?" Well I'm here to say that bondo is an absolute necessity if you are going to have a nice looking, straight paneled ride.

Let's get one thing straight about the use of body fillers (bondo). It is not, and I repeat not for cars that have rust. It is not for cars that have holes in them. That is what you have a welder and patch panels for. If you think bondo will hold or last over a hole of any size you'll be assuredly let down. All those hopes and dreams of having that ugly hole patched will certainly come back and haunt you. If not today, which is sometimes all the longer it takes, give it a year. Moisture will have a field day pushing out the plastic filler and leave you again worse off with a rusty, bubbling, bondo'd up sick looking disgusting scabby eye sore! - geez London "take that bondo" :)

Bondo, or plastic filler, body filler, call it what you want is great stuff, but it is made to smooth out panels. It's a filler in the sense that it fills waves and imperfections in metal. It doesn't take the place of it. It is a cheap and easy replacement for the use of lead. If you have holes you really need metal to patch them, and truthfully it's much quicker to simply cut a piece of metal and tack it in there. It will last if done right for years, especially if you keep it dry and clean. If you live where I do near the great lakes "keep it out of the salt".

All body fillers are basically the same. Some claim to be better than others, but seeing as we're not patching holes anymore with it, I go for the one that sands the easiest. These are known as the light weight body fillers. They usually sand quite easy, and they won't clog up the sand paper nearly as bad as the heavy weight (gold) fillers. I personally stay away from the 'bondo' brand, don't know why really, maybe it's the nightmarish name from my past, but that's neither here nor there, I go with the Evercoat brand. I have had great success over the years and see no need to change. They haven't been able to improve too much on it over the past 15 years.

I have experimented with most brands and weights over the years and one thing they have in common is how to mix it. The single most greatest factor in mixing bondo is the temperature where you're using it. If it is 60 degrees in the shop it will take 15-20 minutes or longer to set up, if it's 80-85 degrees where you are, you have just enough time to mix it fast and run to get it spread. Mixing is the standard 1 inch ribbon of hardener / golf ball size filler. If it's hot, cut back a tad. If it's cold, DON' T add more for it won't help. That can and usually will create pinholes and gummy bondo that will not sand well. You are forced to let it harden on it's own or put some heat on it. Heat the panel first a little if you can, it will help at least to get it to start setting up. Have patience, if you get on it right away it may let go, or flake off the panel and you'll be starting over. Let it bond to the panel thoroughly. Take your nail or a pocket knife and scratch on it. I usually nurse it awhile till it sets up just enough where I can carve any mess I made out of it spreading it , off. It saves time when it comes to sanding.

They make a plethora of tools to work with bondo, most of them will be trial and error for you, you'll find a system that works for you and have all the confidence you'll ever need in working with body fillers. I'll have to save the sanding techniques for a upcoming article, they need explanations, for they all are good for some things and not so well for others. Stay in touch!

Recovering Engine Compression

Hey - does your car have the power it had when you first got it?

Remember the first time you took off out of the dealer's driveway with your new car?

Wow, - it just took off so smooth and powerful.

(Did you chirp the tires? I did.)

So, now what happens? Is the accelerator a little more "spongy"? Can you chirp the tires without taking off in a sharp right hand turn in a wet spot?

Chances are your engine rings and cylinders are showing wear.

Newer engines are lasting longer - true, but if you have a pre 2001, what do you do?

Drive it the way it is and when it gets too bad, you keep driving it smoking and putting in "stuff" so it stops using oil and hoping that it will last it for another year, right? Working at recovering engine compression.

AND - if you really want to keep the car and L O V E it to death, you spend $3,000 to $5,000 to get the engine rebuilt. Hey that is cheaper than a new car, isn't it? Sometimes, maybe.

Technical stuff here - when the pistons are driven up and down, the rings with their spring steel design hold close to the cylinder wall so that the burn of the fuel drives it back down the cylinder. A thin coating of oil protects the ring from touching the cylinder wall almost all of the time. Almost, but not all the time, making recovering engine compression something that becomes real. Due to oil shear and the microscopic imperfections in the surface of the cylinder wall, the ring in real life does strike the cylinder wall, carving out microscopic "wear metal" particles. Plus, as the fuel burns, it leaves behind unburned and partially burned fuel that results in carbon particles that are hard and gritty. Fact of fuel combustion. That is why you have to change your oil - to get those contaminants and the acids out of the engine. Oh yeah acids - think they don't eat away at the engine walls? Think again.

All of this wears out the engine cylinders.

More about Recovering engine compression

So what happens? The rings do not seal between the cylinder and the piston properly and the burned gasses blow by the ring into the crankcase. Now you have power being wasted and compression is low.

There is a new system for engine repair without an expensive engine overhaul. Engine Ceramics. Best one we found are the CerTech Gels and Quality Ceramics. We tested a whole slew of products. Some are cheaper and some used to be better than they are now (they cut on costly active ingredients and increased their profit margin). They don't work as well as they used to. Others will make a gooey mess of the oil. So watch out which product you buy - don't just go for price. Remember, you are looking for results.

Extra benefit - both these are made in USA.

You just add it to your oil and drive. Creates a microscopic patch of ceramics every time metal strikes metal. After a while you have a new low friction ceramic surface on the rings and the cylinders. No, it will never build up so much that it damages the engine. Matter of fact they tell us in hundreds of thousands of cases there has never been a claim of damage. This is a super easy way of recovering engine compression. Plan on spending $100 for 4 and 6 cylinder engines and $150 for a V-8. Your Turbo Diesels will run $200 or so.

And make sure you get a money back guarantee.

One of our customers. Roger had a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee that was running rough - #2 cylinder compression was low and Roger could feel it. He put the first treatment of engine ceramics into his oil and thought he got better performance, but he could still tell the cylinder was weak. Put the 2nd treatment in and after driving it a total of 750 miles, the engine was running smooth. He checked the compression again and they were all level. Could not tell which one was repaired. Total cost $150 instead of $4,700 he was quoted for an overhaul. He is really pleased at this simple way of recovering engine compression.
Look for test results and testimonials of happy customers too.

And by the way, our 2002 Ford Escape takes off like a bat out of hell - even chirps the paint at the light.

Car Repair Prices - How Much Are You Being Overcharged?

Car repair prices fluctuate from repair shop to repair shop and car to car. Knowing if you were fairly charged can be very difficult to determine. Even online auto repair estimates miss the mark - often by hundreds of dollars. What makes it harder is that when you are overcharged it's not for the hundreds or thousands of dollars we hear about in the news, but rather a little at a time, and over an extended period.

The clearest evidence for this is with vehicle maintenance. Repair shops and dealers have created elaborate maintenance schedules for your car. When these are compared to your manufacturer's recommendations you begin to see just how much you are being ripped off. It's important to note that virtually all repair shops (dealers included) do not follow the recommendations of your manufacturer, but embellish the procedures with their own additional services, and more importantly the time schedule (i.e., the maintenance intervals).

Let's take one of the most popular cars on the road as an example, a late model Honda Civic, and look at service intervals based on mileage for the first year. According to the manufacturer, a Honda Civic needs to be serviced every 7,500 miles. Given that the average person drives 15,000 miles per year, we can expect the Civic to be serviced twice in the first year. There are three examples below to highlight the differences in price for maintaining this model. The first is from the manufacturer. The second is from a car dealer. The third is from a general repair shop. Note the additional services, the different maintenance intervals, and thus the change in price. All prices are approximated, but are fairly close...

• Manufacturer (7,500-mile service interval): First year maintenance will include two oil changes, some standard inspections, and two tire rotations. Total Cost = $120.00


• Dealer (5,000-mile service interval): First year maintenance will include three oil changes, some standard inspections, two tire rotations, fuel system cleaning products, engine protection treatment - these last two services are not recommended by the manufacturer. Total Cost = $180.00


• Repair Shop (3,000-mile service interval): First year maintenance will include five oil changes, some standard inspections, three tire rotations, fuel system cleaning products, engine protection treatment - these last two are not recommended by the manufacturer. Total Cost = $225.00

You'll notice that the repair shop in this example is the most expensive. That's because many local repair shops are still urging drivers to change the oil every 3,000 miles. If your shop is telling you this - find another place to service your car ASAP. No major manufacturer is the last two decades has recommended a 3,000-mile oil service interval. This is not to single out local repair shops, dealerships can be more expensive; however, given the competition (as well as other reasons, upselling, marketing...etc), dealers can be quite competitive for auto maintenance.

So, what we see is a $60.00 increase between a manufacturer and a dealer and a $105.00 increase with a local repair shop. If a vehicle's maintenance needs remained as they do during the first year we could easily extrapolate the overcharges. However, vehicles will need more and different services with age - although not as many as your repair shop or dealer is likely telling you - and so the math gets a bit more complicated. We also want to keep in mind that we've been discussing only maintenance. Actual car repairs can have even more variables. What's clear is that the overcharges skyrocket exponentially when you follow the advice of your service center. In short, stick to what the manufacturer has to say about maintaining your automobile. If your service center doesn't know what your manufacturer recommends (and this is very often the case) you're in the wrong place.

Auto Mechanic School - Can It Be the Right Choice for You?

Charly and I grew up together. I was the one with the dolls and she always liked watching her father work on cars. He taught her a lot back in those days. As time went on, she got away from the mechanics and decided to go to college. She was accepted at a university some 400 miles away from home. Her major was sports medicine.

I remember her signing college loan papers promising to pay back quite a bit of money once she got her career going. I know she liked the thought of having her own gym someday because she always did want to be in business for herself.

Graduation Day was memorable. Her whole family was there and I took time off from work to attend as well. It was the first day of the rest of her life and she had big hopes for success. She actually went right in full force trying to land a good job without even taking any time off to relax after 4 grueling years at college. She just focused on getting the job of her dreams!

Well, the weeks turned into months and the months turned into years and she still wasn't anywhere near where she wanted to be. The time came when she had to start paying back all the loans and she became really stressed. She was willing to settle for any job at this point.

I reminded her about her knack for fixing cars. She said she'd love doing that again, but it was a man's job. I encouraged her to just think about it and she did. But, again to pursue this she would need more money that she did not have.

I picked up a few brochures from a local trade school to get her more motivated. I drove her to the school and scheduled a tour. After the tour, she realized more than ever that a trade school majoring in something she loved was a great idea. In fact, she wished she would have done it sooner. If she would have, she wouldn't be staring at huge school loan bills every month.

The school had a financial aid program. She qualified and she enrolled! After only 2 years of working for someone else, she has her own transmission shop. The money is good and her future is secure.

Do you find yourself still looking for your dream job? If you are leaning toward mechanics and want to start earning income as soon as possible, you may want to consider a trade school. Instead of college, think the alternative -- a Trade School! Do you know a good trade school where you live? Do your homework online to find a reputable one in your area. Start Googling. Educate yourself on the subject of the importance of having a good education and a job that you love.