Hey - does your car have the power it had when you first got it?
Remember the first time you took off out of the dealer's driveway with your new car?
Wow, - it just took off so smooth and powerful.
(Did you chirp the tires? I did.)
So, now what happens? Is the accelerator a little more "spongy"? Can you chirp the tires without taking off in a sharp right hand turn in a wet spot?
Chances are your engine rings and cylinders are showing wear.
Newer engines are lasting longer - true, but if you have a pre 2001, what do you do?
Drive it the way it is and when it gets too bad, you keep driving it smoking and putting in "stuff" so it stops using oil and hoping that it will last it for another year, right? Working at recovering engine compression.
AND - if you really want to keep the car and L O V E it to death, you spend $3,000 to $5,000 to get the engine rebuilt. Hey that is cheaper than a new car, isn't it? Sometimes, maybe.
Technical stuff here - when the pistons are driven up and down, the rings with their spring steel design hold close to the cylinder wall so that the burn of the fuel drives it back down the cylinder. A thin coating of oil protects the ring from touching the cylinder wall almost all of the time. Almost, but not all the time, making recovering engine compression something that becomes real. Due to oil shear and the microscopic imperfections in the surface of the cylinder wall, the ring in real life does strike the cylinder wall, carving out microscopic "wear metal" particles. Plus, as the fuel burns, it leaves behind unburned and partially burned fuel that results in carbon particles that are hard and gritty. Fact of fuel combustion. That is why you have to change your oil - to get those contaminants and the acids out of the engine. Oh yeah acids - think they don't eat away at the engine walls? Think again.
All of this wears out the engine cylinders.
More about Recovering engine compression
So what happens? The rings do not seal between the cylinder and the piston properly and the burned gasses blow by the ring into the crankcase. Now you have power being wasted and compression is low.
There is a new system for engine repair without an expensive engine overhaul. Engine Ceramics. Best one we found are the CerTech Gels and Quality Ceramics. We tested a whole slew of products. Some are cheaper and some used to be better than they are now (they cut on costly active ingredients and increased their profit margin). They don't work as well as they used to. Others will make a gooey mess of the oil. So watch out which product you buy - don't just go for price. Remember, you are looking for results.
Extra benefit - both these are made in USA.
You just add it to your oil and drive. Creates a microscopic patch of ceramics every time metal strikes metal. After a while you have a new low friction ceramic surface on the rings and the cylinders. No, it will never build up so much that it damages the engine. Matter of fact they tell us in hundreds of thousands of cases there has never been a claim of damage. This is a super easy way of recovering engine compression. Plan on spending $100 for 4 and 6 cylinder engines and $150 for a V-8. Your Turbo Diesels will run $200 or so.
And make sure you get a money back guarantee.
One of our customers. Roger had a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee that was running rough - #2 cylinder compression was low and Roger could feel it. He put the first treatment of engine ceramics into his oil and thought he got better performance, but he could still tell the cylinder was weak. Put the 2nd treatment in and after driving it a total of 750 miles, the engine was running smooth. He checked the compression again and they were all level. Could not tell which one was repaired. Total cost $150 instead of $4,700 he was quoted for an overhaul. He is really pleased at this simple way of recovering engine compression.
Look for test results and testimonials of happy customers too.
And by the way, our 2002 Ford Escape takes off like a bat out of hell - even chirps the paint at the light.
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